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Many of the pets who are turned into shelters each year are surrendered because families need to move and are unable to find an apartment in which pets are allowed. The Humane Society of the United States has created a website addressed to tenants and landlords that provides guidance for creating the kind of climate that will be mutually agreeable to both animal lovers and property owners. The website offers, among much good advice, samples of resumes to prepare for a pet and a sample letter of recommendation to obtain from a veterinarian. You have a distinct advantage with an older dog because you can list on your dog's resume such appealing qualities as mellowness. Also of note are the suggestions made on the German Shepherd Rescue website. |
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Following are the topics covered in this section. Click on the topics you wish to read about:
Cold and dampness are hard on an old dog. As your dog ages, her coat will get thinner and her circulation will be less efficient, making her feel the cold more. Protect her with a sweater and/or rain gear when necessary. Don't keep her out too long in really cold weather. Older dogs are also more susceptible to becoming overheated in hot weather. Shade your older dog from the sun and keep him in an air-conditioned room in very hot weather. Take shorter rather than longer walks in the hot weather. Be sure he has plenty of cool water to drink. Never leave your dog -- of any age -- parked in a sunny place in a closed car (even with the windows slightly open). A car parked in the sun can become an oven in just a few minutes. An older dog tends to sleep more, but that doesn't mean he should be left alone more. His nose still tells him when he has human company, even as he sleeps. He will still hear your voice (or sense your presence through vibrations), even though he looks like he's dreaming. Give your older dog the benefit of as much human companionship as he's had throughout his life -- even increase it, if possible. Keep him near you and take him with you when you go places. It will increase his sense of security and his involvement with life, and it will make him last longer. In general, dogs like routine and sameness. Older dogs like it even more. To the extent possible, keep your dog's home environment and routines the same. For example, her water and food bowls should be in the same location and she should be fed and walked at the usual times and in the usual places. Of course, individual dogs will vary in their ability to deal with change in their surroundings. Dogs with decreased vision will be more stressed if the furniture is changed around than dogs whose vision is still good. Be alert to signs of stress in your dog that you may have inadvertantly caused by a change in home environment. Try to help her adjust by giving attention and guidance and lots of positive reinforcement when she seems to become more relaxed about the change. Slippery floors will become a problem as your dog ages. You'll notice that your dog will begin to have trouble getting up from the bare floor, or walking across the bare floor. Cover the problem areas of the floor with a rubbber-backed/non-skid runner or area rug. Other suggestions for helping keep your older dog mobilized are on this page under the topic "Mobility." Click in the navigation bar at the left. Your older dog's sleeping areas are particularly important environmental factors. Many older dogs -- particularly those with arthritis in hips and back -- seem to prefer sleeping on an "egg crate" type mattress. Not only does it seem to provide a more even surface and therefore give better skeletal alignment, it also tends to reduce pressure on the dog's bony areas. Egg-crate mattresses are sometimes called "orthopedic" mattresses, and are sold, with zippered covers, through catalogs and in pet stores. But you may also simply buy one from a local foam rubber store or a place like K-Mart, cut it to size, and top it with blankets, towels, or a synthetic "sheepskin." You can place several of these mattresses around the house, in the areas where your dog(s) nap during the day, as well as in the night-time sleeping spot. Your older dog is also likely to be more comfortable in a bolster-backed bed in a draft-free place. Concerning beds that have a built-in heating element, the comment we've heard most often is that the heating element is small and doesn't produce very much heat, and that dogs don't seem to find the mattresses all that appealing. Inexpensive saddle pads can also make a good dog bed. A website visitor made this suggestion: "I buy the fleece western saddle pads from any tack shop, riding supply catalog, or feed store. They're easily large enough for a Dobe to curl up on. They're thick and cushy and have a distinct advantage over 'egg crate' pads in that you can put them in the washer and dryer. They really last, too! My pups have been sleeping on the same saddle pads for years. If you shop around, you can usually find them for about $10 each (sometimes cheaper). Needless to say, my floors are covered with them. I even left a couple at the Doggie Day Care center for them." -- from Roberta (skyfire@panix.com) Does your dog have calluses and bare patches on her elbows from lying on hard floors? Even though you might have purchased the most expensive bed on the market, your dog may still prefer the floor. There is a product called "DogLeggs" that looks interesting as a possible helping agent for this situation. It is basically a kind of garment that covers the dogs elbows. You can visit the DogLeggs web site and judge for yourself whether it might help your dog. Meals are also a very important part of your older dog's life. Be sure your older dog has a consistently organized, quiet environment in which to consume meals. Large-size senior dogs are also likely to benefit from having their food and water bowls raised up off the floor to a height that makes the food and water more accessible. Cleanliness and parasite control are critical in an older dog's environment. Keep your senior dog's water and food bowls scrupulously clean, and please read the information on this site on flea and tick control, linked from the navigation bar at the left. It is becoming more and more popular for people to travel with their dogs. If your dog has been accustomed to traveling with you all his life, there's no reason he shouldn't continue to do so even into his very old age. The only type of travel your older dog should avoid is that which would involve putting him into the cargo compartment of an airplane. Unless your dog is small enough to travel with you in the passenger compartment of the plane, he will be better off at home. Of course, we love to have our older dogs celebrate the holidays with us. They, however, are usually much happier if everything stays the same. The hustle and bustle of holidays, with people coming and going and you rushing around to get everything done does not necessarily coincide with your dog's idea of a good time. Try to set aside a period every day during a holiday season to spend "quality time" with your older dog. Reassure her that, even though things in the house aren't exactly the same, your love and devotion to her are unchanged. She may beg for that delicious-smelling turkey skin, but you need to resist giving it to her because her digestive system won't tolerate it (except, perhaps, in very small portions). You'll need to keep the trash with the turkey bones (which can splinter and perforate the digestive tract) out of reach, as well as the chocolate candies that can be poisonous to her. At Christmas, keep holiday decorations high on the tree and off the floor. Use unbreakable ornaments; hang them with string or ribbon rather than hooks. Keep popcorn strings well out of reach. Never let candles burn unattended. Hide electrical cords under the tree skirt or inside a protective cord cover. Unplug lights when you leave the room or house. Cover the water-filled tree stand securely; tree water can be toxic. Put used ribbon, paper, and foil into a secure trash receptacle immediately after they've served their purpose. And watch out for guests! Be sure they know that your older dog isn't supposed to get any leftovers unless you give them to her. Children may need a special reminder not to play rough with your older dog, or to give her candy. Probably the most common stress on the health of an older dog is extra weight. Ask your vet about the ideal weight for your older dog. If he is overweight, begin a diet-and-exercise program right away, with your vet's guidance. The exercise program for an out-of-shape older dog will need to begin gradually. Please read the information on exercise for older dogs linked from the navigation bar at the left. Should you get another dog to keep your older dog company, or to give him a new lease on life? The answer is that it depends on your dog. An older dog usually doesn't like change of any kind, and a new creature in her territory can mean a big change. However, the family of an older dog may feel that they need another -- preferably younger -- dog in anticipation of their older dog dying. You'll need to weigh these needs against the needs of your older dog. If your older dog isn't happy about having a new, younger dog around, the stress will show. Just be alert to it and as considerate as possible of your older dog on this issue. There is an in-depth discussion about getting another dog on the "Loss" page on the Senior Dog web site. |
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We don't know of any phrase in the English language that has done more harm than that old, worn-out, inaccurate adage: "You can't teach an old dog new tricks." An older dog is actually easier to train than a puppy. One of the reasons is that just about any dog who has reached the age of five or more has learned what "No" means. In order to be acceptable in human company, he has also learned generally what is expected of him. He is calmer and quieter than a puppy, and so he is able to focus better on what you are trying to teach him. He has learned about dominance and has a firm grasp of the concept of "alpha" dog. As an older dog, he is not trying to prove his dominance over humans, and, in general, he is ready to fit himself into his human family "pack," and to do whatever is necessary to make that fit as comfortable as possible. There are different schools of thought when it comes to dog training. Some trainers believe in the use of verbal praise and other types of non-food rewards for training. The most current thinking, however, is that the use of a food-based reward system lends itself better to the concept of "positive reinforcement" and avoids the negative "correction" or "punishment" that is a component of some systems of training. Some systems of training employ a choke collar. Please be aware that your dog can strangle himself on his choke collar. We have had reports of dogs left in their crates overnight whose choke collars got caught in the bars of the crate and would not release. The dogs slowly choked to death. Decide whether a choke collar really is necessary for your dog. Expert advice is to eliminate it, if at all possible. In the past, dogs who were meant for high-level, competitive "obedience" work were trained using very harsh, punitive methods. Although these methods are not widely practiced today, there may still be a few trainers around who believe in them. The Senior Dogs Project strongly advises against those training methods for any dog, but we particularly recommend against it in the case of an older dog. It is too stressful and totally inappropriate. It is far preferable to be as gentle as possible, while using positive rewards and being fair, understanding, and, above all, consistent. Every dog is an individual. Some dogs are more highly motivated than others to please their human companions. Some will be much more sensitive than others to tone of voice or to the cues you use in giving praise. Dog owners are individuals, too, so you need to be aware of your own tendencies and preferences when it comes to training. The references listed below will help you decide what system suits you best.
Keep in mind that many humane agencies and shelters offer courses in dog training at a nominal cost. Be sure to check those in your area for information. Obedience training with your senior dog can be a wonderful way to spend quality time together. Your senior will thrive on the attention and extra time you'll spend together. Even if your older dog can't run as well or see as well as a younger dog, he can still make progress in obedience training. It's not necessary to "show" in competition. The experience, in and of itself, will be enjoyable and enriching for both of you. |
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There's no need to leave your dog at home when you travel simply because she is getting older. Staff at the Senior Dogs Project took an almost-14-year-old dog on an 8,000-mile driving trip across the United States. Everyone had a great time! It is becoming more and more popular for people to travel with their dogs. If your dog has been accustomed to traveling with you all his life, he can do so even into his very old age. The only type of travel your older dog should avoid is that which would involve putting him into the cargo compartment of an airplane. Unless your older dog is small enough to travel with you in the passenger compartment of the plane, he will be better off at home. There are books available (see barnesandnoble.com or amazon.com for titles such as "The ....(name of state).... Dog Lover's Companion"). Mobil also now has a guide to hotels in the US (1999) that accept pets. The following websites will be invaluable in your search for accommodations and resources:
Another effective means of arranging to travel with your dog is to call the place you'd like to stay and ask if they accept dogs. Many places do, even if they aren't listed in the available guides or on the websites. If you absolutely must have your dog fly, review all the information you can about placing your dog on a flight. Begin at the ASPCA web site. When you can't take your older dog with you, the best arrangement is to leave him at home in the care of a competent person. You will want to give the sitter as much information as possible about your dog's habits and preferences. Be sure to provide your pet's vital statistics, vet's name and contact info, feeding schedule, medicines to administer, walk and activities schedule, sleep arrangements, how to contact you while you're away, alternates to contact in case of emergency, etc. When traveling in the summer months, be aware that a closed car -- or even one with the windows open somewhat -- can become an oven in a matter of minutes when left in the sun. Dog Rescuer Jude Fine carries copies of this notice with her in the summer, to place on the windshield of any car in which a dog is locked: YOUR DOG MAY BE DYING!
Thanks to Ray Heizer for passing along this heartwarming story by Karl Alabrecht and Ron Zenke, as it appeared in "Condensed Chicken Soup for the Soul"
Old dogs are mellower and even better guests at hotels and motels than young dogs. Due to the incidence of illnesses in companion animals that have been linked to vaccinations, the practice of giving annual vaccinations has come into question. The current protocol from Colorado State University, which is based on solid scientific reserach, advises vaccinations only every three years (except rabies, which depends on state laws). A quote from the protocol: "We are making this change after years of concern about the lack of scientific evidence to support the current practice of annual vaccination and the increasing documentation that over-vaccinating has been associated with harmful side effects. Of particular note in this regard has been the association of autoimmune hemolytic anemia with vaccination in dogs and vaccine-associated sarcomas in cats -- both of which are often fatal." The protocol states further: "This Program recommends the standard three shot series for puppies (parvovirus, adenovirus 2, parainfluenza, distemper)... to include rabies after 12 weeks of age for cats and 16 weeks of age for dogs. Following the initial puppy and kitten immunization series, cats and dogs will be boostered one year later and then every three years thereafter for all the above diseases. Similar small animal vaccination programs have been recently adopted by the University of Wisconsin, Texas A & M, and the American Association of Feline Practitioners." Many vets feel that dogs over 10 or 12 years of age should not be vaccinated because their immune system can be compromised, and also, by the time they are that age, they have received adequate protection. Some vets refuse to vaccinate a dog over the age of 7 years for the same reasons. Other vets are vaccinating older dogs only every three years. They will also not schedule a rabies shot at the same time as other vaccinations. It should be noted that the vaccines themselves carry the warning that they are to be administered only to healthy animals. Thus, if your dog has any ailment or disease (e.g., cancer), vaccination should not be administered. In some sections of the country, you can have your dog exempted even from rabies vaccinations by obtaining a letter from your veterinarian stating that your dog's health does not allow it. Antibody titres -- blood tests that detect the presence of antibodies to diseases -- can be performed to determine antibody levels. However, titres are not true indicators of the degree of immunity a dog has; that is, a low level of antibody does not necessarily mean that the dog is not protected. Another problem with titres is that different labs have been known to report radically different results when testing the same blood specimen. Some veterinarians feel that titres are worthless as indicators of whether your dog requires a booster. Other websites with information on vaccinations: |
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We don't like to think about it, but we never know what the future holds, and it's just good sense to ensure that our companion animals are properly cared for, should we leave this Earth before they do. The Humane Society of the United States' web site has information posted on "Planning for Your Pet's Future without You." It's worth reading. |
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When winter is upon us, we need to focus on the special needs of older dogs, who can be especially susceptible to the extremes of temperature and other stressful, dangerous conditions of winter. 1) Does your older dog need a sweater? How about a raincoat? Even if she's never needed these before, as she gets older, she'll be less able to keep herself warm with activity. Wet fur decreases your dog's ability to fend off the cold, too. 2) Is your dog's sleeping area free from drafts? Is there a blanket and thick mattress pad for her to snuggle under/sleep on? 3) Does your dog have ready access to unfrozen water? It is preferable for all dogs, including seniors, to live indoors with their family, but, if that's not possible for your dog, ensure there is always a source of water to drink that remains unfrozen. 4) Never leave anti-freeze in a place that is accessible to your dog. If it spills on the garage floor, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area clean with lots of water. The sweet smell of it is attractive to dogs; it is a poison. |
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