Guide Dog Users
of California

• Laboratory Test Interpretation
• Medication Information and Warnings
• Sources for Medicine and Supplies
• Neutering an Older Dog
• Nutrition for Older Dogs
• Physical & Hydro-Therapies
• T-Touch Therapy
• Replacement Parts
• Veterinarians
  • Finding a Good One
  • Veterinarian Terms
• Vital Signs - What's normal for a dog?
  
  

Is it appropriate or beneficial to perform neuter or spay surgery on an older dog.? Our survey of veterinarians indicates that, unless a dog is extremely old or medically unstable, the surgery can only be of benefit. Dangerous conditions such as pyometra and prostatitis can be avoided by spaying or neutering. As one veterinarian summed it up, it is better to spay a healthy 9-year-old than to do an emergency spay on a 9-year-old who is ill with pyometra.

Spaying or neutering a senior dog is a decision that always depends on a careful exam by a veterinarian, including bloodwork and other tests. If the exam shows a dog to be healthy and in condition to successfully undergo the surgery, there is every reason to proceed with it.

It's not surprising that the location of some of the most advanced thinking and technology in the country is now the home of an absolutely-free spay-neuter clinic. No minimum fee at all -- just completely free veterinary services to spay or neuter a pet. Located on Laurel Street in San Carlos, CA, the clinic is open two days a week, Thursdays and Fridays. It will open five days a week beginning in January 2000, and will eventually offer free pick up and delivery service. For information and appointments, call (650) 592-7827. These smart people have figured out that it makes more sense to cover the cost of a spay or neuter operation than to pay (financially or emotionally) for rehoming or euthanizing accidental litters. Totally advanced thinking!! We hope that other agencies will take notice.

The following information was obtained from the Senior Dogs Project web site, slightly more than halfway down on this page, under the heading "Nutrition".

• What is the best food for an older dog?
• How do I keep my older dog from eating too much and putting on weight?
• Is it normal for a geriatric dog to lose her appetite? How can I prevent weight loss from lack of appetite?
• Are there any foods an older dog should avoid?
• What about nutritional supplements for senior dogs?
• Should my older dog drink any special fluids?
• Why does my older dog look uncomfortable when he's eating?
  
  

There is no one best food for an older dog. Every dog is an individual, and every senior dog is, too. A senior dog of one breed is different from a senior dog of another breed, and, even if the same breed, dogs vary in their genetic make-up, life style, history, and environment.

Although pet food manufacturers advertise special "light" diets or protein-reduced foods for older dogs, there is actually no proven benefit from these special diets, and, in some cases, there may be some harm. According to Dr. Delmar Finco, in an article in Veterinary Forum (September 1994), "Benefits from a reduced protein diet typical of existing canine geriatric products have never been proven, and the possibility exists that reduced protein diets are not in the best interest of the geriatric patient."

Dr. Finco explains that there is very little scientific information about nutrition for senior dogs. He mentions one study that found older dogs have the same ability to digest and metabolize food as younger dogs do. And, in a study he himself conducted, Dr. Finco found that it was not clear whether older dogs gained weight because of lack of exercise or because of changes in their metabolism.

It is easy to become confused about deciding on the best food for your older dog. Advertising distorts the picture and, as Dr. Finco points out, scientific data are lacking. The bottom line is that it probably isn't necessary to change your dog's food simply because he is getting older. As long as he has no weight or health problems, you can plan to keep feeding his regular food to him. The most important thing is that the food consist of a good proportion of high-quality protein. Many of the premium dog foods will provide sound nutrition for your dog. Ask your vet to recommend one. If you'd like to read some in-depth information on dog foods, look into The Collins Guide to Dog Nutrition by Donald R. Collins, CVM. Other sources of information about commercial dog foods are at the following websites:

Understanding Dog Food

Building a Balanced Diet

Nutrition and exercise are intricately related when it comes to weight control. Try to keep your older dog exercising as much as she is able. This will help her to burn calories and to maintain more muscle; muscle tissue burns more calories than fatty tissue. If you notice a gain in weight, ask your vet to suggest one of the "light" formulas of manufactured pet food, or feed her less of any of the foods she likes, provided her hunger is abated. The senior "light" formulas tend to contain ingredients that will make your dog feel full, even with fewer calories. Give your dog three or four smaller meals a day rather than just one or two larger meals. She will be less ravenous at mealtime and also will burn calories more efficiently if they are spaced through the day.

If your dog has been accustomed to eating one large meal a day, introduce the several-meals-per-day plan gradually. Keep in mind that these several meals can add up to the same amount as was contained in one meal. The difference will be in the way the calories are used.

Keep your dog entertained with activities other than eating, and make her more dependent on verbal praise and physical contact than on "treats" for her daily rewards.

There is an excellent article by Sarah Probst of the University of Illinois about the dangers of obesity in your older dog, along with recommendations for achieving weight loss.

A gradual loss of appetite is not uncommon in older dogs. As a dog ages, his senses of smell and taste may decrease, making food generally less appealing. A sudden loss of appetite may mean the onset of a serious illness, so be sure to check with your vet if your dog refuses to eat for more than a day. Appetite that gradually diminishes to a dangerously low level also may be a sign of a serious problem. Again, check with your vet if you are in the least concerned about your dog's appetite.

One way to increase the smell- and taste-appeal of food is to warm it. It is, in fact, recommended that you always present food to your dog that is at room temperature rather than directly from the refrigerator. Take it from the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature quickly; that is, don't allow it to sit out for a lengthy period to warm up. Of course, it shouldn't so hot that it might burn delicate tissue in the mouth, either.

Some older dogs like their food on the "soupy" side. Adding unsalted beef or chicken broth will make the meal more "slurpable."

Although it is often said that a dog doesn't need variety, our own experience has contradicted this. When our dog lost her appetite, we rekindled it in spades by introducing variety to her diet. The same old kibble mixed with beef or chicken, beef broth or chicken broth, and a small amount of lightly-cooked vegetables immediately sparked her interest in eating. If you add variety, add it gradually in small amounts to avoid digestive upset.

In serious cases of appetite loss -- sometimes due not only to aging but to medical condition or treatment -- you may need to hand feed your dog special home-prepared food. We never felt we were "spoiling" our dog when we did this. We had to do it only for a short while. When she felt better, she went back to eating on her own. Check with your vet about the kinds of home-prepared foods that may appeal to your dog and encourage appetite.

The very cheapest brands of manufactured food are not good for your dog -- at any age. Although a younger dog may be able to get by on a lower-quality diet, an older dog definitely won't. Many brands of premium food will provide your dog with good nutrition. Although "premium" foods cost more, they are more sound nutritionally. In the end, you probably won't save money by buying a cheaper brand because your dog will have to eat more of it to obtain adequate nutrition and ultimately won't be as healthy. You may see the difference in vitality, skin, and coat, and may also pay the difference in vet bills.

Do you give your dog chews made of pig ears, beef jerky or pigskin? If so, be careful to wash your hands carefully after handling the treats. About 30 people in Canada became infected with Salmonella in 1999 as a result of their exposure to dog chews containing the bacteria. Another option, of course, is to completely avoid the chews. Try giving your senior dog a carrot stick instead.

Home Prepared Diets

If you want to avoid manufactured foods entirely, and you have the time and inclination, you can prepare your dog's meals yourself. It will not necessarily be cheaper, but it can be nutritionally sound provided you are equipped with good information. For guidance in designing a home-prepared diet for your dog, you can use either Dr. Collins' book (mentioned above), or Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, & Susan Hubble Pitcairn. You may want to use both of these books, as well as any others you can find.

You will often hear advice to avoid feeding your dog table scraps. This advice is sound, especially when it comes to preventing weight gain. In the case of an older dog, any food that is different from his normal fare may also cause gastro-intestinal upset. In addition, food for human consumption can be excessively salty, which can be harmful to an older dog. However, if your dog is accustomed to an occasional "treat" in the form of table scraps, changing this pattern may be stressful to him. An older dog doesn't like a change in routine, and may be upset if you begin to deny him his usual treats. Use your best judgment. Be careful to notice whether your dog is gaining weight and whether feeding him something from the table causes an upset. If so, try giving him a "treat" in the form of a different type of dog food from his normal fare. If your dog has no weight or digestive problems, be sure the food you give him from the table is wholesome (that it does not contain excessive salt or sugar or additives, and isn't excessively fatty). Food from your table should be presented as a snack, or it can comprise a small portion of a meal, but should never make up more than 5% of the dog's diet. (And, as every well-trained human of a well-trained dog knows, table scraps are not fed from the table, but rather are put into doggie's bowl at appropriate snack or mealtimes.)

Check with your vet before introducing nutritional supplements into your dog's diet. An excess amount of something that is normally beneficial may create an imbalance in your dog's overall nutritional status. There are so many products on the market now -- especially in the "health foods" arena -- that you may find yourself confused. You are not alone. Many of these products do no harm; many do no good and are a waste of money. See what your vet thinks before giving supplements to your dog.

Water is the best drink for your senior dog. The main problem with many older dogs is that they forget to drink, or, due to arthritis or joint pain, they have trouble getting up and moving around, so they avoid going to their water bowl. Dehydration -- even mild -- is a bad state for a senior dog.

The recommendations are: (1) Thoroughly wash and re-fill your dog's water bowl several times a day. (2) Set out several water bowls in locations that your dog can reach easily. (3) Deliver the water bowl to your dog if you notice he hasn't had a drink in a long time. Be certain that the water you give your older dog is clean and free of pollutants. Because an older dog's kidneys may not be functioning as well as when he was younger, they won't tolerate impure water. Some vets recommend giving your dog filtered water. A good guideline to use is that if the water is good enough for you to drink, it's good enough for your dog. Similarly, if you don't think you should drink it, your older dog probably shouldn't drink it either.

Most of us usually put a dog's food and water bowls on the floor. For a large older dog, this may be a source of discomfort. Arthritis can make it difficult for your dog to bend down to eat his food. Check your pet supply store or catalog for an eating table, specially designed with cut-outs for water and food bowls. These are available at various heights depending on the size of your dog.

You may also make your own less-expensive arrangement with wrought iron planter stands (as little as $5 - $6 each). You might also find that an inexpensive plastic wastepaper basket will work. Place the bottom of the bowl on the bottom of the basket and draw around it to make a pattern that you cut out. The bowl will then fit neatly into it. These come in many different heights. For our own senior dogs, we've placed the bowls on top of some plastic storage chests covered with old towels for traction and absorption of spills.

We also like this "tip" from a visitor to srdogs: "My dog, Judy, has lumbar spinal cord pressure from arthritis, giving her hind leg weakness. This causes some instability, particularly while standing to eat. She winds up pushing her stainless steel feeding bowl across the room. I have looked into a number of weighted bowls that haven't worked. Trying to be creative, I put four small round Velcro patches on the bottom of her bowl and placed it on a small rug....Works like a charm! No more traveling supper times..."

Another source of discomfort may be your dog's teeth and gums. If he seems to be avoiding crunchy food, or looks distressed while chewing, have the vet check his mouth.

Whether it is part of the recovery process following surgery or a means of maintaining mobility for an aging pet, physical and hydro- therapies are taking hold as useful components of companion animal care. From New York City, where dogs get their physical therapy at Bonnie's K9 in Chelsea, to the Cozy Inn Pet Resort, 50 miles east of Pittsburgh, to the Animal Fitness Center in San Jose, CA, it is being shown that dogs can be helped dramatically with such treatment. Here is a list of centers:

• Angel's Gate Hospice and Rehabilitation Center, Fort Salonga, NY; Telephone: (631) 269-7641
• The Animal Fitness Center, San Jose, CA
• Bonnie's K9 Corp, New York, NY
• Carolina Canine Center, Greensboro, NC
  Cozy Inn Pet Resort & Spa, PA; Telephone: (724) 593-6133
• Desert Haze Swim Therapy for Canines, Scottsdale, AZ
• Shiloh Road Kennels Canine Hydrotherapy Rehabilitation Center, Midlothian, TX. (972) 723-3880.
  
  

Many older dogs have health problems that do not seem to respond to traditional therapies or medication. T-Touch is an alternative approach. According to information on the Internet, "It is two sets of techniques – body work and ground work. The body work is a collection of specific touches designed to work on emotional and health problems. The touches are not massage or acupressure, and they are not invasive. The body work includes various gentle manipulation of body parts."

For more reading on T-Touch, visit the following websites:

• Dog Owner's Guide: TheTellington TouchTellington Touch
  
  

If one of your old dog's parts has worn out and is not functioning well, she may be a candidate for a replacement.

Some of the procedures now being performed and associated estimated costs are:

• total hip replacement ($3,000);
• prosthetic limb ($375-450);
• tracheal ring replacement to treat a collapsing trachea ($1,500-3,000);
• cardiac pacemaker ($1,000-1,500);
• heart valve transplant ($5,000-6,000);
• crowns for teeth ($1,200-1,500);
• ocular prosthetics; lens implants for cataracts.

For more information, contact:

• Colorado State University College of Veterinary Medicine, Fort Collins, CO (970) 491-7051;
• University of California at Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, Davis, CA (530) 752-1011 (http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu);
• Veterinary Brace and Limb Technologies, Livermore, CO (970) 221-9361;
• Veterinary Surgical Associates, Concord, CA and San Rafael, CA (800) 834-7874.

(Source: San Francisco Chronicle, Wednesday, July 14, 1999)

Recommendations from friends and relatives should be a main focus of your research to find a good veterinarian. You may also use the following:

• AAHA Hospital Locator
• Veterinarian Specialties

A veterinary school may be a good source of a veterinarian. To find one in your area, check this list.

Find a holistic vet.

Alternative veterinary medicine

Need to understand veterinary or medical abbreviations and terms? Try these websites:

• http://www.library.uiuc.edu/vex/vetdocs/abbreviation.htm
• http://www.vetinfo.com/dencyclopedia/deindex.html
  
  

"Normal" Readings for a Dog

What should a dog's normal temperature, pulse, and breathing rate be? Here are the ranges:

• Temperature: 99.5 - 102.8
• Pulse: 60-120 beats per minute
• Breathing: 14-22 breaths per minute